The year 2020 marked a significant point in the evolution of Yves Saint Laurent, a house steeped in history and constantly redefining its legacy. Across its various collections – from the ready-to-wear Spring and Fall shows to the Resort collection and the men's line – Saint Laurent's creative director, Anthony Vaccarello, presented a powerful and multifaceted vision, one that both honored the brand's heritage and propelled it boldly into the future. This article will delve into the key elements of the Saint Laurent 2020 runway shows, examining the individual collections, their distinctive aesthetics, the beauty looks, the models who brought them to life, and the critical reception they received. We will explore how Vaccarello navigated the brand's rich history, particularly referencing the iconic "hippie glam" aesthetic of the 1970s, to create a contemporary yet undeniably YSL experience.
Saint Laurent Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear:
The Saint Laurent Spring 2020 Ready-to-Wear collection served as a powerful opening statement for the year. Held in the usual dramatic setting, the show presented a collection that was simultaneously sleek and rebellious. Vaccarello masterfully blended sharp tailoring with a sensual, almost rock-and-roll edge. The silhouette was largely defined by sharp shoulders, fitted jackets, and high-waisted trousers. These structured pieces were contrasted with flowing, sheer fabrics and plunging necklines, creating a compelling tension between strength and vulnerability. The palette was predominantly dark, featuring deep blacks, rich browns, and shimmering metallics, punctuated by occasional pops of vibrant color.
The beauty look for the Spring 2020 show was equally striking. Models sported a deliberately undone, yet polished, aesthetic. Hair was often styled in loose waves or sleek, straight styles, with a focus on natural texture. Makeup was minimal, emphasizing strong brows and a subtly smoky eye, enhancing the overall sense of effortless cool. The models themselves were a diverse and striking group, embodying the confident and independent spirit of the collection. Many were established names in the industry, alongside fresh faces, all contributing to the overall impact of the show.
Reviews of the Spring 2020 collection were largely positive. Critics praised Vaccarello's ability to maintain the brand's signature sophistication while injecting a contemporary energy. The collection was lauded for its strong silhouettes, luxurious fabrics, and the overall sense of effortless chic. However, some critics noted a certain repetitiveness in the overall aesthetic, suggesting that while undeniably stylish, the collection lacked the groundbreaking innovation expected from a house like Saint Laurent.
Saint Laurent Fall 2020 Ready-to-Wear:
The Saint Laurent Fall 2020 Ready-to-Wear collection presented a stark contrast to its spring counterpart. While still retaining the brand's signature elegance, it embraced a darker, more romantic mood. The collection drew heavily on the bohemian spirit of the 1970s, echoing the "hippie glam" style that Yves Saint Laurent himself helped popularize. This wasn't a literal rehash of the past, however. Vaccarello filtered the 70s aesthetic through a distinctly modern lens, creating a collection that felt both nostalgic and incredibly contemporary.
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